It
feels good sitting here in Lukla. No more walking. No more cold
early mornings. No more worrying about supplies.
Dawa is leaving this morning for Namche to return the boots and
sleeping bag and to retrieve my American Express card. I said my
good-byes and he headed up the trail, a spring in his step. Finally he is rid of me! If everything goes well he should be back
tomorrow night.
Today I do little. Perhaps tomorrow I’ll go for a little hike with
the camera and no pack and test the knees.
I
can’t get the Loon Samba and the three statues out of my thoughts. It turns out the Dawa’s cousin, the Lama of his village Gompa was
the person who carved the replacement figures. The originals had
finally decayed beyond salvage. The Buddha's are true works of art
and to get replicas of the originals carved by the person who
created them would be a real coup. Dawa believes the Lama would be
happy to do so and we have discussed a tentative price. We shall
see.
Thursday Night 11/17
Last Dinner at the Mera Hotel In Lukla. I am flying out sometime
tomorrow, but not worry free. I am leaving behind well over a
thousand dollars worth of equipment for Dawa to bring out when he
follows. We cannot leave together since he must fly standby, being
a resident, and getting a special air rate. Lukla is very
busy, but Dawa knows the ticket master, and my seat is assured.
The flight out should be interesting. The runway, a gravel and
dirt affair, sits on a narrow shelf with the runway going across
the width. If the plane comes in short it hits the lip of the
shelf, if it comes in high it slams into the ridge. The runway is
inclined upward so that the incoming planes can stop in time. To
take off these 12 passenger Otters rev the engines with the brakes
on hard till they achieve maximum torque and then, like a sling
shot, they bounce down the canted runway to the abyss..
I
had a little trouble paying for the ticket since I did not bring a
currency document from Kathmandu, needed for all currency that has
not been converted. They at first refused to accept my traveler’s
checks, but after pleading stupidity on the laws of the land, and
with Dawa’s help, we get it straightened out. Walking out from
Lukla for another ten days just was not an option.
I
am having Dalbot, if it ever arrives. There is a large French
group sharing the dining room, and it seems appropriate. A Danish
gentleman is discussing a possible bladder infection with a doctor
associated with the French group. She speaks English with an
American accent. The Sirdar is counting a large pile of rupees,
and two porters are in an intense discussion.
Since my last stay here, on my way in, the lodge had installed a
new wood stove with a chimney and a better heating system for the
hot water shower out back. The stove fills the room with it’s
radiant heat.
The French have been playing cards nonstop for six hours now.
Sitting here waiting for the meal to arrive, I find it is easy to
dwell on this adventure and how much travel means to me.
The Dane has just offended the Sirdar by saying that in Jiri theft
from the buses is a real problem and indicated that it was worse
in Jiri than in other place in the world. The Dane has not been
in New York!
Well, it has been an interesting trip. I have learned much,
including patience, as I am still waiting for the food. My food
always seems to be the last to arrive. Of course, I will have eleven days to eat and
get the kinks out of my body in Kathmandu.